The Ethiopian town that’s home to the world’s greatest runners

May 21, 2012

What do Kenenisa Bekele, Tirunesh Dibaba, Derartu Tulu and Fatuma Roba have in common, apart from being Olympic gold medal-winning runners? They all come from Bekoji in Ethiopia – and they were all trained by one man.

Outside the blue hut is a plaque with a beautifully calligraphed set of rules and regulations – athletes must train hard, respect each other, work as a team and honour their homeland. At the top of the plaque three flags have pride of place: Ethiopia, the local region of Oromia and the Olympics. This is the office of Sentayehu Eshetu, known to everybody as Coach. To be honest, it’s more run-down garden shed than office. Inside, it is dark and dusty, but the late afternoon sun lights up a series of photographs of athletes on the wall. All have won at least one gold medal at middle- or long-distance running. Amazingly, six of the champions originate from this tiny town of Bekoji, and have been coached by Coach.

If Sentayehu Eshetu is not the world’s greatest coach, he is surely the greatest discoverer of running talent. In London this summer, two of the 54-year-old’s most successful former prodigies, Kenenisa Bekele and Tirunesh Dibaba, will defend Olympic golds at 5,000m and 10,000m. Then there’s his first champion, Derartu Tulu, who won the Olympic 10,000m in Barcelona in 1992 and eight years later in Sydney, and Fatuma Roba, who won the Olympic marathon in 1996 in Atlanta; and the latest generation of champions – Tirunesh’s sister Genzebe, only 21 and already world indoor champion at 1500m, and Kenenisa’s younger brother Tariku who won the 3000m gold at the World Indoor Championships.

Coach is a small man with a big smile. He talks quietly and is not one for hyperbole. When I suggest he has a magical touch, he looks alarmed. “No! No magic,” he says intensely. “I don’t do any magic. It’s the weather and the fact that everything is helping them.” He must have something special? “They listen well and work hard. And eat well. You know barley? They eat barley.” He grins and says I should eat more barley.

Bekoji is 170 miles south of the capital, Addis Ababa. There are plenty of donkeys and horses and goats and cows on the road, but few cars. Coach says around 17,000 people live in the town of Bekoji; there are 25 car owners and he knows all of them. The landscape looks arid but is incredibly fertile. Everything grows here – oil seeds, coffee, tea, spices, sugar cane, cotton, cereals. The centre of Bekoji sits 10,500 feet above sea level and has an average temperature of 66 degrees. Its inhabitants are proud of its climate and special air. On arriving, I find it hard to breathe, but when I do manage to gulp some in, I quickly realise how crisp and pure it is. If you can run here, they say, you can run anywhere.

We head off across the red ochre soil, which blows up yet another mini dust storm, past the corrugated shacks and rubble and randomly parked lorries, and head for Bekoji stadium. It’s not as grand as it sounds. There is one primitive stand, a grassy bank for people to sit on and a straggly football pitch in the middle. This is where Coach takes his youngsters, between the ages of 12 and 20, through their paces five times a week.

There must be more to your success than feeding the runners barley, I say to Coach. “I give full attention to my team and I’m always on time, and I will do anything it takes to make them a champion. I tell them what they should do, and if they follow that, they run very well.” Coach never ran himself. His sport was football. He taught PE and played in central defence. These days he hobbles more than runs. He shows me the knackered knee that did for his football ambitions.

Until now, the rest of the world has remained oblivious to Coach’s achievements, but for the past four years a documentary film crew has recorded in Bekoji and has produced a lovely film called Town Of Runners. It’s no exaggeration – any day at sunrise you will see groups of teenagers or adults running up the hill. Most will be on their way to the two-hour daily training session with Coach. Within an hour the sky goes from red to white to perfect blue. By 8am, the sun is burning through in the 80s.

Coach is thinking about why so many great runners come from here – determination, physical strength from working the land, huge lungs, role models, perfect body shape. (Many of the most successful distance runners have been small, light and immensely strong, with a superhuman capacity to endure – the biopic of Ethiopia‘s most famous runner, Haile Gebrselassie, who comes from down the road in Asella, is called Endurance.) Running is a means of escape and transcendence in Ethiopia – Coach’s best runners will go to “finishing school” in Addis Ababa and that is just the start of their journey. Every day, Coach says, parents will ask him to train their children. “Kids want to run to make their parents happy, and the parents want them to run so they don’t have to work the land. They say, come and take my son or daughter.”

It must be heartbreaking telling them that they are not going to make it, I say. He shakes his head. If they have any natural ability, he insists, you can never write them off. Athletes come through unexpectedly – and fail unexpectedly. He tells me about Zegeue Shifarawu Abebe, the young man who takes training with him. “He used to train with Kenenisa, and we thought he was the better runner; that he was the one who was going to win Olympic medals.” For whatever reason, Zegeue never made it, and now he’s out every morning coaching tomorrow’s champions.

The Ethiopian running dynasty:  What is the secret to its success? 

About a month ago, we did a post questioning whether we were about to witness the end of the Ethiopian era of long distance running dominance.  The jury is still out on that one, though a world record for Meseret Defar in Oslo in the 5000 m seems to suggest that even in Kenenisa Bekele is not going to continue his dominance, the women athletes will probably reign for a good few years yet.
The next question is why are the Ethiopian athletes so successful?  Usually, when one asks about African runners dominating in middle and long distance running, we think of the Kenyans, because there seem to be infinite numbers of them and they win just about every major marathon in the world.  On the track though, it’s a different story.  Since 1993, Ethiopians have won all but one of the World and Olympic 10 000 m titles.  The athletes in question are Haile Gebrselassie and the afore-mentioned Bekele, who now share 5 out of the last 6 world titles and all three of the Olympic titles (Trivial pursuit fact – the only man other than these two to have won a title in the last 12 years is Charles Kamathi of Kenya, who won in Edmonton in 2001).
In addition to this dominance on the track, they have also dominated the Cross Country scene, with Bekele winning 5 out of 5 long races and 5 out 5 short races at the World Cross Country championships between 2002 and 2006.
Yet they clearly don’t have the depth that the Kenyans do.  I was speaking with a colleague at the Sports Science Institute here in Cape Town.  He is Kenyan and is in South Africa to try to set up a relationship with the University of Kenyatta so that we can do some research on the Kenyan runners.  He tells me that a typical track meeting in Kenya will have not one, but ten 10000 m races!  Each one has 30 participants, and every single one runs under 30 minutes!  Think about that – 300 runners all running under 30 minutes at EACH meeting!  Astonishing depth.  And he says to me that the Ethiopians have nothing like this level of depth, but that they use their talent more effectively.
So this post is not about the reasons for East African running success – that is a post for the future, when we will look at just what it is that makes these guys so good – is it training, is it genes, is it diet, is it lifestyle (it’s probably all of them, but we’ll cover that in the future).  And one really important thing to realise is that the Kenyans who are most successful are a mere stone’s throw away from the Ethiopians who are successful.  If you looked at a map of where the best runners come from in both countries, you could draw a circle around the border between them and you’d pretty much have the catchment area.  So if the reasons for the dominance of both Kenya and Ethiopia are physical and physiological, then one would be able to treat them almost the same, because they are very similar in that regard.  But for now, we concentrate on the Ethiopians and ask how it is that they have managed to dominant where it counts even though they have a smaller talent pool than the Kenyans.  And I believe that there are two key reasons why they do:

  1. Administration and policy, which has created a more narrow focus and restraint than in Kenya
  2. Training differences

Marriott International continues its investment into the African continent

May 16, 2012

Marriott International, Inc. (NYSE:MAR) continues its investment into the African continent by following up the proposed 209-room Accra Marriott Hotel, with the announcement of two new hotels in Ethiopia.   The two properties are a Marriott Executive Apartments for extended stay travellers and a quality tier Courtyard by Marriott branded hotel. Both will be located in Addis Ababa and are scheduled to open in 2013 and 2015 respectively. The Courtyard by Marriott alone is expected to bring US$ 65million into the local economy over five years.
This marks Marriott International’s first foray into Ethiopia, after a number of similar announcements throughout the continent and is a sign of the company’s confidence in the growing African market.
Speaking at the World Economic Forum (WEF) in Addis Ababa, Alex Kyriakidis, President and Managing Director of Marriott International Middle East and Africa, said that there is a direct correlation between a country’s ability to grow and the entrance of hotel providers into the market. “Hotels bring new untapped revenue into the market by boosting tourism numbers and dollars, building infrastructure and creating jobs, which all resonate throughout the economy as a whole.”
Marriott International has projected that by 2018, the new Courtyard by Marriott branded hotel’s total revenue will be ETB 242 million (US$ 13 million) per year – equating to ETB 1 billion (US$ 65million) injected into the economy over five years from only one 209- room hotel.
“The fundamental demand generators that drive our industry are alive and well on this continent,” Kyriakidis said. “Marriott International’s investment into this region represents the economic realisation for the need for hotels – countries need to invest in infrastructure, accommodation and airports to create jobs to grow the economy.
“By adding these two properties to its growing investment in Africa, Marriott International is demonstrating its confidence in the market – that it will grow and that the economy will move forward at a staggering pace.”
Tourism is the fourth largest foreign exchange earner in Ghana and the government recently implemented a Strategic Tourism Development Plan. The plan aims to highlight the importance of the sector to private companies and government agencies involved in the development of infrastructure to improve skills in the industry and to identify opportunities and programme developments necessary for the sector.
Demand for hotel rooms has also increased since the announcement of the discovery of oil off the Ghanaian coast and the subsequent granting of oilfield licenses
“All of these factors ensure we have a very high confidence in the Accra market,” Kyriakidis said. “There is an excellent supply of local talent and strong interest from Ghanaians overseas to return to work in International companies in Accra. The quality of graduates from the Accra based universities is also excellent.”
Marriott International is focusing its growth on Ethiopia, Benin, Gabon, Ghana, Nigeria and Rwanda, with a number of new properties scheduled to open over the next five years. “We are thrilled by the robust expansion of our African hotel portfolio,” said Kyriakidis.


ATM Locator | Visa ATMs | Find Bank Cash Machines in Ethiopia

May 11, 2012

ATM LOCATOR ADDIS ABABA-ETHIOPIA

By Getachew Teklu

ATMs/Cash Machines – are found throughout Addis Ababa. Dashen Bank is a principal member of both VISA and MasterCard International and has deployed 55 ATMs in Addis Ababa and around the major cities like Bahirdar, Gondar, Mekelle, Awassa, Dessies, Nazreth, Dire Dawa and Harar. Some of the ATMs found at D.H. Geda Tower (next to Friendship City Center) accept both VISA and MasterCard, Dembel City Center (quite hidden, use the main entrance, than to the left, at the window), Edna Mall , in some hotels (Hilton, Sheraton, Intercontinental, Wabi Shebelle Hotel, Ethiopia Hotel, Semein Hotel, Harmony Hotel). Also near the National Museum (Lucy Gazebo Restaurant), ground floor of Getu Commercial center just at the entrance and some branches of Dashen Bank. Please note that not all cards are accepted everywhere,   CBE ATMs are now internationalized and have touch screen technology. HILTON is best place to change/get money. It has 4 ATMs (outside near Hair Salons) and inside on ground floor two banks, Nib and United, have Foreign exchange  bureaus that are very quick for changing your hard currency cash.  Cash on Credit Cards at Dashen Bank and Sheraton but at 6% and US$500 max per day. Traveler’s cheques are difficult to cash in Addis Ababa.

There is ATM at airport near at Immigration area next to banks. Since January 2011 there is ATM available in the Bole airport at the left side of the customs exit.

Foreign Currency Exchange

Foreign currency can be exchanged at any commercial bank, including branches located at larger hotels and at the airports. Exchange rates are the same everywhere. Foreign currencies that will give you the best exchange rates are US dollar, euro and pound sterling. Recommended to bring are US dollars, as some banks will not accept other currencies. Note that it is illegal to change money on the black market.

Exchange of birr back to foreign currency is only allowed for visitors holding onward ticket from Ethiopia.

ATMs

Availability of Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) is limited to larger cities such as Addis Ababa, Bahir Dar, Gonder and Mekele. The ATMs accept international Visa cards but they don’t work with Cirrus and Plus systems and also don’t accept MasterCard. Some ATMs in Addis Ababa dispense cash in both US dollar and birr.

Credit Cards

Credit cards can be used in some places like hotels, airline offices or travel agencies in the capital Addis Ababa, but, with some exceptions, not outside of the city. Some banks will give you cash advance on a credit card. Most accepted cards are Visa and MasterCard and typically merchants add additional 3-5% to the bill when using them.

Traveler’s Checks

Traveler’s checks can be cashed in banks, but are difficult to exchange outside of Addis Ababa. Best rates are offered for checks in US dollars or pounds sterling.

Banking Hours

Usual banking hours are 8:00am to 3:00pm, Monday – Thursday, Fri 8:00am to 11:00pm and 1:30pm to 3:00pm on Fridays and 8:30am to 11:00am on Saturdays.

For ATM locator visit http://visa.via.infonow.net/locator/global/

For additional travel and tour information about Ethiopia visit www.admastravel.com

 


Traveller’s Guide: Ethiopia

May 2, 2012

BY Stuart Butler

There is a place, in the searing deserts of north-east Ethiopia, where you can watch a new version of planet Earth being created. In 2005, over a period of just 10 days, a 60km-long, 8m-wide crack opened in the Earth’s surface. Scientists who witnessed it were astonished. Here, they told the world, were the labour pains indicating the birth of a new ocean and the beginning of an event that in a mere 10 million years would rip Africa in two.

The fact that Ethiopia is reshaping our planet should come as no surprise. After all, this corner of East Africa is often cited as the cradle of humanity. It was here that ancient hominids first stood upright. But Ethiopia’s contribution to Earth’s history extends much further; this is a country that has helped shape much of our culture. It is home to one of the world’s oldest Christian communities, an even older Jewish one, and it is where the first Muslims found shelter when persecuted in their Arabian homeland. Ethiopia is also where the Ark of the Covenant, the biblical chest carried by Moses from Mount Sinai, can supposedly be found, inside a chapel in Axum.

Going back even further, Ethiopia is where the Queen of Sheba is said to have had her palace and where she gave birth to a son, fathered by King Solomon, who became the ancestor of all Ethiopian emperors right up to Haile Selassie.

Unfortunately, despite its illustrious past, years of famine and war have kept mass tourism at bay. But things are changing, and nowadays Ethiopia is safe, stable and surprisingly easy to visit. Indeed, Cox & Kings (0845 564 8275; coxandkings.co.uk) reported that its Ethiopia group tour was the best-selling escorted tour in its Africa brochure last year. The 14-day “Ethiopian Odyssey” starts at £2,889 per person, including flights.

Most visitors focus on the northern highlands, with good reason. Homeland of the Christian Amhara and Tigrayan peoples, the north’s soaring mountain plateaux offer a treasure trove of historical sites, tiny monasteries older than any European cathedral, and rock-carved churches filled with medieval art. The main tourist sites in the north are Lake Tana, the source of the Blue Nile, whose surface is pockmarked with tiny forested islands hiding 16th-century monasteries. Then there’s Gonder, the former imperial capital, which has some of Africa’s finest castles and palaces.

Axum has one of the greatest collections of archaeological sites in sub-Saharan Africa. And the final stop on most people’s itinerary is Lalibela, the so-called New Jerusalem. Rainbow Tours (020-7666 1250; rainbowtours.co.uk) offers an 11-day “Classic Ethiopia Historical Tour” costing from £2,895, including flights.

The north also has some of the most breathtaking mountain scenery in Africa, with the 4,000m-high Simien Mountains the most popular hiking area. For more offbeat trekking, the northern Tigray region and the area around Lalibela offer fantastic walking, and diversions include monasteries atop needles of rock. Exodus (0845 287 7613; exodus.co.uk) offers a 15-day “Simien Mountains Trek” from £2,149, with flights.

Heading south from the capital, Addis Ababa, you’ll find a land torn open by the Rift Valley, sprinkled with muddy lakes and home to a mind-boggling array of tribal peoples. Then there’s the little-visited west, among whose evergreen coffee plantations lies adventure – and none bigger than the search for the lost gold mines of King Solomon.

Finally, in the east, where Islam dominates, is the fear-inspiring Danakil Desert– with its fiercely independent tribes – widely seen as the world’s hottest, most ferocious place. Yet it wasn’t always like this: Ethiopians say that, long ago, the Danakil was a vast field of pure gold. True or not, it’s likely that, a long time hence, the Danakil will be at the bottom of a brand new ocean formed after Ethiopia tears Africa into two, and once again reshapes the world.

Axum

You might not guess it, but the small and dusty town of Axum (Aksum) was once one of the most important towns in Africa. Its influence stretched over a vast swathe of north-east Africa and southern Arabia. Today, there are still reminders of those glory days; a handful of stelae – one of them pictured right – and a clutch of tombs and mausoleums. But even with these physical remains we still know little about ancient Axum. Who constructed these stelae, and why? Are there really secret hoards of treasure hidden in sealed tombs? (It’s certainly true that there are passageways and tombs under Axum that archaeologists have yet to open.) Was Axum really once the capital of the Queen of Sheba? And, most intriguingly, does the small chapel at the centre of the town contain the Ark of the Covenant?

Ace Cultural Tours (01223 841 055; aceculturaltours.co.uk). offers a 14-day group trip, calling at Axum, for £2,950, with flights.

Lalibela

The legends say that, 1,000 years ago, a poisoned man was carried to heaven by the angels and shown a breathtaking city of rock-hewn churches. He was then commanded by God to return to Earth and recreate what he had seen.

The result was Lalibela. Easily the No 1 attraction in Ethiopia, and one of the architectural wonders of Africa, the dozen churches, hewn out of rust- red rock, are the high point of an ancient Ethiopian building tradition. You can explore them quite freely, but note two things: you will be expected to take off your shoes, and the carpets covering the floors are often alive with fleas.

Lalibela is a living, breathing religious site, and to be here during one of the major Christian holidays, when thousands of white-robed pilgrims pour into town, is to witness Christianity at its rawest and most powerful. Explore Tailormade (0844 875 1890; explore. co.uk/tailormade) offers an 11-day “Ancient Kingdoms” tour that includes Lalibela, Axum, Gonder and some well-kept secrets. From £2,275, with flights.

Omo Valley

In the remote south of the country is a side of Ethiopia that stands in utter contrast to the cool, Christian highlands. The Omo Valley is the Africa of Hollywood films; wild and sometimes untamed, it’s home to a plethora of tribal groups, including the bull-jumping Hamer people, the Beshadar and the fascinating Mursi, whose women wear huge lip plates and whose men still live a life of cattle rustling and tribal fighting.

Last century, tourism in these parts was unheard of, but today, the Omo Valley has become one of the Ethiopian tourist boards’ biggest selling points.

Getting to the southern Omo Valley, where the greatest concentration of tribal villages can be found, is an adventure, and, because of a paucity of public transport, even hard-core backpackers end up using a tour company.

Wild Frontiers (020-7736 3968; wildfrontiers.co.uk) has a 13-day “Journey through the Omo Valley” from £2,170 without flights, or £2,695 inclusive. The tour includes crater lakes in Langano, visits to indigenous villages and boat trips on Lake Chamo.

Lonely Planet’s Ethiopia & Eritrea guide is available now, price £16.99 (shop.lonelyplanet.com)


Ethiopian Airlines, the first African airline to operate the 787Dreamliner

April 25, 2012

Ethiopian Airlines, the first African airline to operate the 787, has trained eight pilots on the 787 Dreamliner at the Boeing Flight Services campus located at Gatwick, London.  Additional batches of trainees are conducting 787 training in the same facility.

Boeing has been granted approval by the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) to provide flight training for pilots preparing to operate the new Boeing 787. With 787 training, pilots can transition to the new airplane in five to 20 days, depending on previous pilot experience. Boeing 777 pilots can qualify to fly the 787 in as little as five days, given the high level of commonality between the two airplane types. “This is an important milestone in the history of Ethiopian Airlines,” said Captain Desta Zeru, Senior Vice President of Flight Operations for Ethiopian Airlines. “Our pilots are now qualified as the first African pilots to fly the 787.

“We are proud to support Ethiopian Airlines as they grow their business with the 787 Dreamliner,” said Roei Ganzarski, chief customer officer, Boeing Flight Services.  “World class training for a world class airplane is part of the Boeing Edge we work hard to provide to our customers.” The Boeing 787 flight training program uses an innovative suite of training devices including a full-flight simulator, flight training device and desktop simulation station to ensure that pilots are ready to fly the Dreamliner.

About Ethiopian

Ethiopian Airlines, one of the largest and fastest growing airlines in Africa, made its maiden international flight to Cairo in 1946. With the latest addition of new services to Seychelles, Ethiopian provides dependable services to 65 international destinations spanning four continents.

Ethiopian is proud to be a Star Alliance Member. The Star Alliance network is the leading global airline network offering customers convenient worldwide reach and a smoother travel experience. The Star Alliance network offers more than 21,000 daily flights to 1,290 airports in 189 countries.

Ethiopian is a multi-award winner for its commitment and contributions towards the development and growth of the African aviation industry and in recognition of its distinguished long-haul operations enhanced by the introduction of new routes and products. Recently, Ethiopian won Gold in the African Airline of the Year 2011/2012 Awards organized by the African Aviation News Portal. Ethiopian also received the 2011 AFRAA award for being consistently profitable over the years and has won the “AFRICAN CARGO AIRLINE OF THE YEAR 2011 Award” for its excellence in air cargo. Ethiopian also won the NEPAD Transport Infrastructure Excellence Awards 2009 and “the Airline of the Year 2009 Award” from the African Airlines Association (AFRAA).

With its acquisition of and firm orders for several new modern fleet, the airline is well positioned to pursue aggressively the implementation of its 2025 strategic plan to become the leading aviation group in Africa.

Source Ethiopian Airlines


Discovering Ethiopia’s Best Kept Secret

April 23, 2012

Africa"s best kep secret-Ethiopia

Ethiopia is a unique travel destination with numerous attractions that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. However, despite being an enchanting country Ethiopia delights remains unknown to most travelers; hence many connoisseurs consider it to be Africa’s best-kept secret.

Ethiopia is blessed with an astonishing contrast of nature’s gifts. This ranges from the heights of the jagged peaks of the Simien mountains- a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the bird filled rift valley lakes, to the undersea level lunarscape of the Danakil Depression. Travelers have plenty of opportunities to enjoy mountain treks, caving, camping, sailing and white water rafting adventures.

Though not as abundant as elsewhere in Africa, Ethiopia has plenty of wildlife – including 31 rare species. Ethiopia is also one of Africa’s great birding destinations and 861 species have been recorded of which 16 are endemic.

Most overseas visitors will start off from Addis Ababa. Addis, as the city is popularly known by its aficionados is the capital city and home to Bole International Airport. The city rests at the foot of the Entoto Mountains.

Addis Ababa means New Flower and its foundation are credited to Queen Taitu – consort to Menelik II. While in Addis, make sure to visit the Ethnographic Museum and the National Museum. The Giorgis Cathedral, which was built in 1896 to commemorate victory over Italian invaders, is also worth a visit.

The Simien Mountains National Park is much favored by trekkers as it boasts some of the scenic sights in Ethiopia. The mastiff reaches to 4620m, the highest point in the country. The park was created to protect the Walia Ibex, which is found only in Ethiopia. Other endemic animal species in the park are Gelada Baboon and Simen Fox. Bale Mountains in the south-east, though less accessible, has trekking opportunities and some wildlife including a few endemic species.

Awash National park, said to be one of the finest and most accessible reserves in the country, is also worth a visit. The Awash River strides the park before heading to the Dankil depression where it vanishes, never to reach the sea. Some special attractions in the park include the Awash Falls, the dormant Fantale volcano and some thermal springs. Forty-six species of wildlife have been identified here and the bird life is prolific. The park is located just 211 km to the east of Addis Ababa.

Regarding historical attractions, Axum, is key stopover on the historical routes. The ancient city, dating back at least 2,000 years, is particularly important in the history of the Orthodox Church as it was the seat of King Azena when he converted to Christianity in the 4th century AD. Every year, the site known as Queen Sheba’s bath is the focal point of the ceremony of Epiphany.

Axum is also known for the 17th century Cathedral of St Mary of Zion. Legend has it that the original Ark of the Covenant is housed here. The monks jealously guard this treasure and do not allow anybody to view it. This stand has led to much speculation that this object of immeasurable historical and religious value may not actually be in the hands of the monks of St Mary of Zion. Other historical attractions in Ethiopia include Lalibela and Gonder.

The best time to visit Addis Ababa and the highlands region is the dry October – June period. The traveler is advised to dress very light in the lowlands and desert country. In the highland region, temperatures average 16°C and warmer clothing comes in handy at night and early morning.


Bedrock of Art and Faith-Art and Travel

April 21, 2012

The St. George church in Lalibela, dedicated to Ethiopia’s patron saint, is one of 11 Ethiopian Orthodox churches that were carved out of the rock in the 13th century and are literally anchored in the earth.

By HOLLAND COTTER

ON the roads through Ethiopia’s highlands traffic raises a brick-red haze that coats your clothes, powders your skin and starts a creaking in your lungs. Despite the dust people wear white. Farmers wrap themselves in bleached cotton. Village funerals look like fields of snow. At churches and shrines white is the pilgrim’s color.

I wear it too, protectively: long-sleeved white shirt, tennis cap, Neutrogena sun block. A pilgrim? Why not?

I’m here for something I’ve longed to see, Ethiopia’s holy cities: Aksum, the spiritual home of this east African country’s Orthodox Christian faith and, especially, the mountain town of Lalibela, with its cluster of 13th-century churches some 200 miles to the south.

Lalibela was conceived as a paradise on earth. And its 11 churches, cut from living volcanic rock, are literally anchored in the earth. In scale, number, and variety of form there’s no architecture or sculpture quite like them anywhere. They’re on the global tourist route now, though barely. To Ethiopian devotees they’ve been spiritual lodestars for eight centuries, and continue to be.

Heaven seekers and art seekers are, in some ways, kindred souls, impelled to spend precious time and travel mad distances in search of places and things that will, somehow, fill them up, complete them. For the religious, pilgrimage is a dress rehearsal for salvation. For the art seeker, it can transform a wish list of experiences into a catalog of permanent, extended, relivable memories. But why do art seekers go to the particular places and things they do? This is a personal matter; complicated, with roots in the past.

As an American teenager in the early 1960s I sensed Africa all around me, secondhand. African independence was on the evening news; names like Lumumba, Nkrumah and Senghor chanted by jubilant crowds. “Civil rights” was turning into “black power,” with preachers in suits replaced by Huey Newton holding a spear in one hand, a shotgun in the other.

In college I took an anthropology course called “Primitive Art.” It met in an ethnological museum that had a collection of masks from West and Central Africa. I loved them instantly, these things made for dancing, healing, telling stories, changing identities. They looked old but felt new. I wanted to go to where they came from.

But not ready yet, I went that first college summer to Europe, where I dashed through countless museums in 15 countries before ending up in Istanbul. Again, love, immediate. One look at Byzantine art — the lifting-off dome of Hagia Sophia, the Buddha-calm saints of the Chora mosaics — confirmed what I had begun to suspect: my compass was not set westward.

At that point I didn’t yet know that Byzantium and sub-Saharan Africa had once fruitfully intersected. I later learned, and that intersection is what I’ve come to Ethiopia to see.

The history of Ethiopian culture is deep, going back — if the national epic, the “Kebra Negast” or “Glory of Kings,” can be believed — to at least the 10th century B.C., when an Ethiopian ruler, the biblical Queen of Sheba, traveled to Jerusalem in search of the wisdom of Solomon. The two monarchs met, bonded and had a son, Menelik, who would become Ethiopia’s first emperor.

Solomon, the story goes, wanted to name Menelik as his heir. But the young prince, with Africa on his mind, left Jerusalem behind. He did not, however, leave empty-handed. Secretly he took with him the Ark of the Covenant, which held the tablets given by God to Moses, and brought it to Ethiopia, in effect, establishing a new Israel there.

History, if that’s what this is, then fades out for stretch, until around 300 B.C., when a new empire coalesces in northern Ethiopia, with the city of Aksum as its capital and a still-existing group of immense stone stelae, carved with architectural features, as its grand monument. Another fade-out. By the fourth century A.D. Ethiopia has become officially Christian, and the Ark is in Aksum, enshrined in a cathedral named St. Mary of Zion, where it remains.


Tourists from 5 nations victims in Ethiopia attack

January 18, 2012

Travel & Safety

By LUC VAN KEMENADE, Associated Press

Gunmen in Ethiopia’s arid north attacked a group of European tourists traveling in one of the world’s lowest and hottest regions, killing five, wounding two and kidnapping two, an Ethiopian official said Wednesday.

Ethiopia called the attack “an act of open terrorism” and said the gunmen came from neighboring Eritrea and attacked the tourist group before dawn on Tuesday. Three Ethiopians were also taken hostage. Eritrea denied it was involved.

Austrian, Belgian, German, Hungarian and Italian nationals were among those in the tourist group, Ethiopian Communications Minister Bereket Simon said.

Two Germans, two Hungarians and an Austrian were among the five killed, according to an Interpol report cited by the spokesman for Hungary’s prime minister. Two Belgians were seriously hurt and two Italians escaped unharmed, the report said. Two Germans were kidnapped.

Austria’s foreign ministry confirmed that an Austrian man from the province of Upper Austria was among the five dead. Germany’s foreign minister also confirmed two German deaths. Germany’s foreign minister said 12 other people were flown to safety by helicopter.

Those wounded in the attack arrived in Addis Ababa Wednesday evening, where they were met by embassy personnel. A British diplomat at the airport said it was possible one British tourist was among the group attacked.

One victim had to be moved in a wheelchair. Others covered their faces to avoid being photographed by journalists. A diplomat said that the victims did not want to make any statements to the media and said that they have had “a very hard time.”

Ethiopia offered its condolences to the families of victims and said it would “do everything possible to try and get those taken prisoner released as soon as possible,” a government statement said. “It is already clear that the attack was carried out with the direct involvement of the Eritrean Government. There is a fear that the people who have been kidnapped might be taken across the border into Eritrea.”

Ethiopia said it suspects the attack was linked to an upcoming African Union summit in Addis Ababa later this month. It said the attack shows that the international community “must now get serious about the destabilizing role of the Eritrean regime in the region.”

The tourists were visiting a volcanic region in Ethiopia’s northern Afar region, which lies below sea level and is known for its intense heat and picturesque salt flats.

Some of the tourists appeared to be traveling with Addis Ababa-based Green Land Tours and Travel, according to three people in Ethiopia’s capital, all of whom asked not to be identified because the information hadn’t yet been made public.

Green Land Tours and Travel offers a 15-day travel package to the Afar region, which include visits to watch salt extraction from salt lakes and a trek around a volcano that spouts lava pools.

Some of the tourists on the trip also appear to have been booked by a company in Germany called Diamir, which posted a statement on its website saying that it deeply regrets what happened. Diamir said it had offered the Ethiopia trip several times a year since 2006.

“Up until the current incident, Diamir had no indications that the security of guests could be in question in the region,” it said, adding that there was no German travel warning in place for Ethiopia or parts of it at the time of the incident.

Bereket said that “some groups trained and armed by the Eritrean government” attacked the tourists about 20 to 25 kilometers (12 to 15 miles) from the Eritrean border.

Eritrea’s ambassador to the African Union, Girma Asmerom, said Ethiopia’s allegations are an “absolute lie” and that the attack is an internal Ethiopian matter.

Ethiopia and Eritrea fought a border war from 1998 to 2000,claiming the lives of about 80,000 people. Tension between the neighboring East African countries rose last year when a U.N. report claimed that Eritrea was behind a plot to attack an African Union summit in Ethiopia.

Austrian Foreign Ministry spokesman Peter Launsky-Tiefenthal said there was an Austrian Foreign Ministry travel warning in effect for the region since 2007 “because of several incidents involving attacks on tourist groups … in some case politically motivated in others criminally motivated.”

In 2007, five Europeans and 13 Ethiopians were kidnapped in Afar. Ethiopia accused Eritrea of masterminding that kidnapping, but Eritrea blamed an Ethiopian rebel group. All of those hostages were released, though some of the Ethiopians were held for more than a month.

In 2008, Ethiopia foiled a kidnapping attempt on a group of 28 French tourists in the area.

“The problem is, there is no infrastructure in the area, no telephone lines, satellite phones barely work,” Launsky-Tiefenthal said, comparing the remote area to “the surface of Mars.”


Ethiopian airline planning new destinations in 2012

December 31, 2011

 

Tewolde-Gebremariam EAL CEO

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia - The Ethiopian Airlines is undertaking a study to open four new routes to Asian countries: South Korea, Singapore, Malaysia and more destinations in China.

Ethiopian CEO Tewolde Gebremariam told The Reporter that the national flag carrier wants to strengthen its Asian market by opening new routes to the stated countries. Ethiopian has seven destinations in Asia. Ethiopian flies to three cities in China – Beijing, Guangzhou, and Hangzhou. It also flies to Bangkok, Hong Kong, Mumbai, and Delhi. “We are undertaking market studies on Seoul, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and more destinations in China,” Tewolde said.

Ethiopian is also planning to open new routes to the US in addition to Washington DC. Ethiopian is preparing to launch a new flight to Toronto this year. The Canadian Civil Aviation Authority has already given the green light to Ethiopian. The airline hopes to launch the flight to Toronto, where is a large Ethiopian community. Ethiopian will deploy new jetliners – hopefully the Dreamliners – on the new routes.

Ethiopian, which was established in 1945, serves 62 international and 17 domestic destinations. The airline, which prides itself on being “The New Spirit of Africa” serves 40 destinations in Africa, the largest number of destinations served by a single airline.

Ethiopian currently flies only to Cairo in North Africa. A senior executive of the airline told The Reporter that currently the airline is eyeing the north African market – Libya, Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco. However, the executive declined to mention the exact destinations (cities) that the airline wants to serve in North Africa.


Ethiopian Joins Star Alliance With Big Growth in mind

December 14, 2011
By Jens Flottau
Ethiopian Airlines is looking at Asia for future network expansion now that the airline has officially joined Star Alliance. “We are considering Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Guangzhou as additional destinations,” Ethiopian CEO Tewolde Gebremariam said on the sidelines of the official joining ceremony in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.Ethiopian, which was invited to join the alliance in late 2010, became the 28th Star member and was sponsored by Lufthansa through the process. It is also the third African airline to become part of Star after South African Airways and Egyptair. “We have taken a large step forward in completing our Africa strategy,” says Jaan Albrecht, the departing alliance CEO. Ethiopian fills a network gap in the middle of the continent that neither Egyptair nor SAA can fill on its own. The airline is one of a small group of African carriers that is growing its long-haul network in spite of the massive expansion of European and Middle Eastern carriers in the region. Its largest regional competitor is Kenya Airways.Ethiopian’s long-haul growth plans are centered on its order for 10 Boeing 787-8s, the first of which is now due to arrive in mid-2012, three years later than planned. “The delay was very painful for Ethiopian, but it was worth waiting for,” Tewolde says.

Another growth project is running into delays as well. Last year, Ethiopian, Egyptair and SAA announced plans to set up one or more joint-venture airlines to be able to better cover Western Africa. Ethiopian has already set up ASKY, a joint venture with local investors in Togo that was planned to be used as the basis for an expanded effort. ASKY currently operates three Boeing 737-700s and one Bombardier Q400. While the plan to bring Egyptair and SAA in as additional investors and grow ASKY “is still active,” according to Tewolde, it seems to be very much on the back burner right now. The Ethiopian CEO concedes that in order to grow ASKY they would have to add bases in other West African countries, but it has not yet reached the stage where any particular site has been considered. “We need more time for that,” Tewolde says.

Given the Egyptian revolution earlier this year, Egyptair is still very much focused on getting load factors and traffic up to previous levels and building connecting markets through Cairo in order to be less dependent on local demand. The airline is also undergoing a leadership change that is making investment decisions more difficult right now.

SAA has had several unpleasant experiences in its history when it tried to invest in other African airlines and is taking a slow approach as well.

One factor that is making the ASKY expansion more complex is that Lagos, Nigeria, would be the obvious base from an economic point of view, but politics is making such a project a tough proposition.

Source: Aviation Week


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